![]() I do have a micro-block slipped into the ring on the hook and that works great for extra purchase-power when I pull on the outhaul, but it doesn't seem to affect the holding power of the hook in the grommet. The metal is bendable to some degree and you could try squeezing the space between the sides of the hook together just ever so slightly to create a little friction to hold the hook in the grommet. You might compare the curvature of the hook/size of the space that goes through the grommet with the one your dad uses and see if there's a difference. I have never had the hook come out on its own. The space within the curved part of the hook that goes through the grommet fits very snugly, enough that when I derig I have to really wiggle the hook loose. you just pick up your strop from the weather side of the boat.I have used the clew hook both with and without the Velcro strap without the strap I used the standard clew tie-down. The strop will run down the guy to the guy block so when you have finished the drop etc. When you are ready to get rid of the old sail you spike the strop and then drop the kite. You attach the clew of the new spinnaker to the guy and hoist the kite. You spike the clew of the old sail and it is now on the strop. You take the strop under the pole and connect to the clew ring on the old sail. You go out on the end of the pole (if fully crewed) or drop the pole forward (if single/doublehanded) and clip drectly onto the guy on the aft side of the pole. A strop with a tylaska on one end and a clip on the other it is about 12 inches long. up to 70 foot) as the recoil on the larger boats means you don’t want your head in the way.Ĥ) My old favourite that is great for short handed sailing and works really well on sym peels. Harder to use the martin breaker set up on this system so it is better to do on smaller boats (i.e. Also how many times as a bowman have you been up there trying to fit the guys and tackline on the tack ring of the sail as it has been set up incorrectly. Pole doesn’t get moved at all during the peel you just clip the new tack on the other tylaska and spike away the old (kind of like what you do with the tack on a jib peel!). Also tylaska if you have a mixed asym, sym inventory. You can either splice the tack line to this ring direct or you can tylaska (advantage of tylaska is you can remove when the wind is light and you don’t want all the hardware dragging the sail down) splice = cheaper. Then you attach your guys and tack line to the bottom segment. ![]() Really only use this technique if you aren’t set up to do the other methods or you rarely do peels and don’t want the expense of a different system.ģ) A peeling ring – Two captive tylaska go in the top segments for tack of spinnaker. Good for retractable sprit boats as that way you hoist on the strop then put the tack line on the new sail when the old one has been spiked away. On large sprit boats you rig a martin breaker and are well clear when the tack is remotely spiked for you.Ģ) A long strop off the jib tack ring with tylaska on each end – also discussed above. Great for retractable pole boats and large sprit boats that have halyard locks. Just make sure if your deck is balsa core that you have put epoxy plugs in so that when you remove and fill with a screw and silicone for inshore racing you don’t get a mushy core due to water infiltration. I have four different types of peeling strops for different reasons/boats – some are for asym some for sym boats or both.ġ) Double tack line – if it is not class legal we install the extra clutch for offshores and take off for inshores.
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